Outdoor cladding panels
Facade cladding is recommended for use from larch or spruce (quality AB). The spruce cellular structure “closes” as it dries and is similar from surface wood to heartwood, corresponding to pine heartwood. With pine, the cellular structure of the surface tree remains “open” and only the heartwood has closed. Due to a different cellular structure, spruce absorbs moisture less pine and has less moisture living. Spruce is more suitable for facade cladding slightly pine.
The exterior cladding boards obtained from us are fine-sawn spruce, have an excellent surface for painting. At the installation stage, the moisture content of the timber used for external cladding should be less than 20%, since the wood shrinks as it dries. The moisture content of the wood cladding to be painted should be up to 15-18% depending on the type of paint. For a balanced and calm finish, the cladding should avoid combining vertical and horizontal cladding on the same facade, since it usually leads to abundant moldings and technically inconvenient details. Choose a vertical or horizontal trim solution suitable for the nature of the building and environment and aim for an unpretentious and clear overall look.
Prerequisites for functional and long-term exterior cladding:
- Use cladding board sufficiently thick, recommended thickness 28mm
- Use industrially primed cladding board
- The board is heart stuff
- Install boards heart side outward if you don't use industrially surface-treated *cars
- Avoid extensions or use end-propelled board
- Shape the bottom edge of the cladding into drip nok
- Leave behind the outer cladding about 22-25 mm bottom-up open vent gap
- The maze height should be such so that the lower edge of the outer cladding becomes at least 300mm above the ground level
- Working window water fields and moldings/lining boards
- Working rain gutters and tusks
- The width of the rails not less than 300 mm, preferring 600 mm
- Regular maintenance painting of exterior cladding
Exterior cladding surface treatment
Paint the wooden cladding as soon as possible after installation. For painting treatments, you can find information about industry literature such as RT help cards and product reports from paint manufacturers. Cladding can also be done industrially using pre-primed boards. Priming contributes to the protection already during work from the cladding from rain and sunlight, as well as need ingress of painting work, since after the installation of the cladding can proceed directly to the surface painting. Already, when buying boards, find out the types of topcoat that are compatible with the primer.
Cladding boards are usually attached to their base with hot-dipped wire nails. The appropriate length of nails is usually not less than 75 mm. The intermediate distance between the anchorages is usually 600 mm. The board is nailed from each attachment point with two nails, the distance from the edge of the board is about 20... 25 mm. For mounting the horizontal cladding, vertical mounting boards are installed through the wind shield firmly on the frame post of the outer wall. In vertical cladding, fastening boards are mounted horizontally and fastened through the raising battens or boards and wind shield that ensure the ventilation interval, securely on the frame post. If you use a compressed air strip, take care not to sink too deep and break the surface of the tree. The strain of the nail should not remain in the pit, as it contributes to the absorption of rainwater into the tree. Use a nail and full-fledged campaign lobbies for outdoor cladding to adjust the nail depth during work.