SHADOWLINE CORNICE THERMO ASPEN 15 x 18 2V A

✅ Made from European wood, responsibly produced
✅ Completely natural and safe product
✅ Noblewood-like, beautifully brown surface
✅ An excellent choice for benches as well as sauna and wet area paneling
✅ Made from carefully selected raw materials from the best growing areas

LengthAvailable
2.40 m141.60 m
Total in stock
141.60 m
10pcs/pkg
5
,40
€/m
incl. VAT 25.5 %

Shipping costs to the retailer


Moldings complete the room

Small details make a big difference. Moldings finish the transitions between surfaces and pull the look of a room together. A narrow, simple molding stays subtly in the background, while a wide, profiled molding adds poise and visual impact.

The right molding for every spot

  • Baseboards finish the line between floor and wall and protect the bottom of the wall from knocks.
  • Ceiling moldings soften the line between wall and ceiling and give the room a finished look.
  • Trim moldings neatly cover the joints around windows and doors.
  • Edge and window reveal moldings finish edges and window reveals.

Choose from a range of widths and profiles to find the one that suits your home. If you're renovating an older house, our traditional moldings bring a classic look to the room while respecting its original style.

Go bold and wide

Wide, decorative moldings aren't just for older houses. In a modern home, they create an interesting contrast with clean, simple surfaces and add a sense of elegance to the room.

A look that evolves with you

Wooden moldings stand up to time and wear. When you want to refresh your interior, you can paint the moldings a new color and give the room a new look without a major renovation.

Product information

TuotenimiVARJOLISTA LÄMPÖHAAPA 15 x 18 2V A
TuotenumeroSW4793
AlkuperämaaSuomi
Toimitusaikahuomenna, kun tuotetta varastossa
SaatavuusVarastotuote

Product measurements

Vahvuus (mm)15
Leveys (mm)18
Paino (kg/myyntiyksikkö)0,130
Pakkauskoko (kpl/pkt)10

Product features

PuulajiHaapa lämpökäsitelty
PintakäsittelyEi käsitelty
PalokäyttäytyminenD-s2, d0

Sustainability

Hiilijalanjälki (CO2e kg/jm)0,13
Hiilikädenjälki (CO2e kg/jm)-0,18
CE-merkintäEi

Grading rules

You can download the grading rules applied in the manufacture of this product here: Aspen and thermotreated aspen

Minimum order size

Please note that we deliver our products in bundles. Bundle size is indicated together with stock information on top right corner.

Installing moldings

Moldings give a room a finished look and neatly cover the joints. When you plan the joints and corners in advance and choose a fastening method that suits the surface, the result is polished and durable.

Before installation

  • Let the moldings acclimatize. Bring the moldings into the room well in advance so that they adjust to its temperature and humidity.
  • Treat the moldings before installation. It's easiest to paint or treat the moldings before you fasten them. After installation, you only need to touch up the fastening points and cut surfaces.
  • Plan the joints before cutting. Think about where the joints will go so that they end up in places where they're as unnoticeable as possible.
  • Allow extra length for cutting. The stated product length is not an exact measurement, so choose moldings that are at least 5 cm longer than you need.
  • Choose how to join the corners. Decide whether to miter the moldings or butt them together.

Cutting and corners

  • Miters: Cut miters with a miter box or a miter saw. A sample piece helps you get the angle right easily.
  • Joints: Make joints as scarf joints, cut at an angle of about 45 degrees. A scarf joint is less noticeable than a straight joint and doesn't open up as easily.
  • Profiled moldings in inside corners: You can cope the end of one molding so that it fits the profile of the other. This keeps the joint tight even if the corner isn't perfectly square.

Fastening

The fastening method depends on what you're fastening the molding to.

SurfaceFastening
WoodTrim nails or finishing nails
DrywallNailing into the battens or gluing
Brick, concrete or stoneHammer-in anchors or gluing
Any surfaceGluing

Always fasten baseboards to the wall, not the floor. Parquet and laminate floors, for example, move, and the floor needs to be able to move under the baseboard.

Nailing

  1. Fasten the molding with a finish nailer at intervals of about 60 cm. Also fasten both ends of the molding.
  2. You can also fasten the molding the traditional way with a hammer and trim nails.
  3. On drywall, nail the molding into the battens so that it stays firmly in place.

Fastening to concrete or stone walls with hammer-in anchors

  1. Press the baseboard lightly against the floor, for example with a scrap piece of board.
  2. Drill straight through the baseboard into the wall with a hammer drill.
  3. Hammer the anchor through the baseboard into the wall.
  4. Finally, tighten the screw with a cordless drill.

Gluing

Suitable adhesives include Soudal Soudagrip construction adhesive and Kiilto Rakennusliima.

  1. Apply adhesive to the back of the molding and press it against the wall.
  2. Pull the molding away and check that there is enough adhesive.
  3. Let the adhesive soak into the surface for a moment.
  4. Press the molding back into place. Support it if needed until the adhesive has dried.

Finishing

  • Fill gaps with acrylic caulk. Fill any gaps between the molding and the wall or ceiling with paintable acrylic caulk.
  • Fill the nail holes. Set the nail heads below the surface and fill the holes with wood filler.
  • Touch up the paint if needed. Paint the filled spots, caulked joints and cut surfaces to match the molding.

If you're unsure about any step, ask a professional installer for help.

Treatment

Always treat one moulding along its entire length to avoid visible seams. Use a product suitable for the space. If acrylic has been used for finishing during installation, it is recommended to apply the final coat so that the acrylic is covered. This makes cleaning easier and prevents a visible line from forming as the colour of the acrylic and moulding changes over time.

Maintenance and Care

Proper cleaning keeps surfaces in good condition and looking attractive. The maintenance interval for the surface treatment depends on the product and installation location. Maintain the surface in time to prevent wood damage from lack of protective coating. Dents in wooden mouldings can be repaired with suitable filler and a new coat of paint.

The most common purpose of mouldings in interior design is to finish joints—such as where walls meet floors. They are generally used to give a room a more polished look, but can also serve as decorative elements that create a desired atmosphere. Typical uses in homes or offices include floor and ceiling edges, as well as door and window frames. Different shapes and materials can completely change how a room looks—for example, a tall moulding can make a low room feel even lower unless that’s the intended effect.

Mouldings can also highlight certain features of a space through colour. There are many colour options, and surface treatments can further alter a product’s characteristics. White is a very popular choice.

Lauta.fi offers mouldings made from pine, alder, aspen, western red cedar, and heat-treated radiata pine. Pine, alder, and aspen mouldings are also available heat-treated.

Skirting Boards

Finish the joint between the wall and the floor. In addition to ready-made colours, wooden skirting boards can be painted to match the room. Profiled options come in multiple widths, with designs inspired by various eras.

Architraves & Casing Mouldings

When architraves are used around doors and windows, they’re called casing mouldings. They can also finish other details—for example, hiding the join between two different wallpapers. Wooden architraves can be painted or finished to taste.

Shadow Mouldings

Instead of fully covering the wall–ceiling join with a cornice, a shadow moulding can be installed near the ceiling to create a shadow line, concealing the joint in shade. They can also be used like traditional cornices.

Edge Mouldings

Also called L-mouldings, they add a finishing touch and style. Commonly used on outside corners, at the top of half-panelling, or around doors and windows.

Cornices

Installed at the top of walls to finish the wall–ceiling junction. Colour choice can make the line blend in or stand out for contrast. Wooden cornices can be painted, and sauna cornices can enhance the atmosphere in sauna spaces.

Corner Mouldings

A type of edge moulding used specifically in corners to simplify panel finishing. Unlike most mouldings, these are installed before panelling.

Planning

  • Choose an appropriate size
  • Plan joints and corners
  • Decide how and where they will be fixed

Account for wood movement—mouldings shrink as they dry in dry spaces, and expand/contract with humidity changes in damp areas.

Lauta.fi delivers product sample pieces to both consumer customers and professionals, such as architects, interior architects and designers, construction industry and procurement professionals.

If you are interested in ordering one or more sample pieces, please contact our sales department via email lauta@lauta.fi or phone +358 3 3123 6000 (On weekdays 8-16).